Leh - A paradise on earth....

The first stop for most travellers in Ladakh is Leh town. Wisely so. It is at a lower altitude than many other attractions, allowing one to acclimatize better. For those flying in, Leh has the only airport in Ladakh, thus making it natural for the journey to start and end here. This is also where you pick your Inner Line Permits for exploring other areas of Ladakh.

What do you do here? The town and its surroundings can keep you busy for days or even weeks. Here is a selection - monasteries have been excluded from this essay.

The Shey Palace:

Leh was not the first capital of Ladakh; it was Shey when it was so selected in the 10th century by Palgyigon. Located 15 kms (10 miles) east of Leh, Shey village is quiet, clean and sparsely populated. Relish its lush meadows along the Indus in the summer, with rare birds for company. The original Shey Palace has seen expansions over time. The current structure was built by Deldan Namgyal, who resided here for most of his reign in the mid-17th century. From Shey Palace, you get some stunning views of the glittering sunset skies. You know exactly where to head to in the evening.

The Sakyamuni Buddha: In memory of his father, Sengge Namgyal (regarded as Ladakh's greatest king), Deldan Namgyal commissioned an 8 metre high statue of a seated Sakyamuni. Built in copper and brass, then gilded and studded with precious stones, it is the world's largest such image of Mahayana Buddhism. The palace also houses Ladakh's largest victory stupa, with a top of pure gold.

The Leh Palace

Modelled on Lhasa’s Potala, the Leh Palace sure has a majestic presence over the city. Even though there is not much to impress once you are inside. While the exterior overwhelms the eye, the interiors are a mere maze of mud-plastered rooms and passages. Badly damaged when the Tibetans and Mongols invaded Ladakh in the late 17th century, it was further wrecked by the Dogras in 1834. Of over 100 rooms, most are inaccessible. Originally, the palace's lower levels housed animals and served as storage for fodder, wood, dried meat and vegetables. On the upper floors lived the royals and their guests. There was also a throne room, a reception hall and prayer areas.

A View of the Tsemo Monastery from Shanti Stupa

At the Leh palace entrance, pause and look up. You'll spy the ruins of a fort built by King Tashi Namgyal in the 16th century on Namgyal Tsemo ('Peak of Victory'). Its gonkhang (‘temple of guardian deities’) is still used by worshippers. Folklore has it that the king entombed bodies of the invading Mongols in the temple's foundations to ward off future attacks. Just don't go digging to prove anything.

A New Age Peace Stupa

The Shanti Stupa, built in 1985 by The Japanese for World Peace,  rises above a hill beyond Leh's Changspa area. Visit it for sure either at sunrise or sunset. In all likelihood you will be alone at dawn, and it may be the opportunity to reflect and meditate. Evenings are magical with the peaks of Stok Kangri and the valleys around attaining a golden hue. If you want to hear silence surrounded by Nature’s majesty, spend time at the Shanti Stupa.

Call upon the royal family at Stok Palace

Yes, Ladakh has a royal family tracing its lineage back to 1470 A.D. And they live at the Stok Palace, a few miles from Leh across the Indus. Built in 1825 by the then king Tsewang Thondup Namgyal, the royals took refuge here in 1834 when the Dogras overthrew them. The family has had no real powers since then but Ladakhis still respect them as their royal masters. While you may not be able to meet the family, you can take a tour of much of the palace and its well curated museum. Women would admire the queen's crown and exquisite, turquoise-studded perak (‘head dress’) and Balti princess Gyal Khatun's neckpiece. In the king's room are unique gold/silver-embellished thangkas, including 35 that depict the Jatakas. Wooden blocks to print prayer flags, leather jewellery boxes, jade cups, fine porcelain - all make it a treasure trove of relics. A trumpet crafted from human bone symbolises the Buddhist belief in the impermanence of things, even human life.

The Prayer Drum in Stok Palace

There's a small temple in Stok Palace where the royals still pray in - this is a beautiful prayer drum used here. You can also catch glimpse a gold and silver chorten locked away in a room and a 7th century image of Avalokitesvara, Tibet's patron saint of compassion.

Watch the Moon rise over the Indus

It is said the Indus originates from the mouth of a lion in Mansarovar, in China-controlled Tibet. Thus it is also called Sengge Tsangpo or the Lion River. It’s significance goes to back to the time when some of the earliest human settlements on this planet came up along its banks. As it flows from Tibet to Pakistan through Ladakh before meeting the Arabian Sea, it symbolically binds the people of the three nations. Few rivers in the world can boast of flowing through as stunning a landscape as the Indus. As you drive southeast along its banks towards Tso Moriri or northwest towards Batalik, you will see it flow by valleys, gorges and peaks of countless hues. Walk along its banks in the evenings and admire the views created by a setting sun and a rising moon.

Local Villagers Selling Fresh, Organic Vegetables in Leh Market Street

Downtown Leh makes for an interesting place to spend a few hours - but you may find blaring taxis and diesel generator sets a bother at times. The market is full of Tibetan handicrafts, and many are worth a buy. Especially those being sold in open air markets; shops tend to be a trifle more expensive for the same stuff. If you are looking for travel and camping gear and accessories, you can choose from the best of brands - most being counterfeits from China. But not a bad buy if your conscience does not prick you. Want to feel healthy? Village women from around Leh set up shop on pavements selling truly organic veggies grown on their farms.

A Hot Cuppa Coffee Anytime in Leh

If  Instant Nirvana is what you seek, seek an espresso or filter coffee at one of the many cafes in Leh market; strongly recommended is the Desert Rain run by the local Moravian Church. The pancakes are a treat here. You will find many a restaurant serving authentic Ladakhi / Tibetan fare, or some very well done Italian salads, pastas and pizzas. !